How to Paint a Garage Door
A garage door is often 30% of a US home's front elevation, and a fresh paint job on it is one of the highest-ROI curb-appeal projects on Remodeling Magazine's Cost vs. Value report. Whether the door is steel, aluminum, or fiberglass, the steps are similar - and doable in a single Saturday.
Clean and de-gloss the door
Wash with TSP substitute and a sponge, rinse thoroughly, and let dry. Scuff-sand with 220-grit paper or a ScotchBrite pad to break the factory gloss - paint will not stick to an un-sanded slick finish. Wipe with a tack cloth before priming.
Mask the hinges, handles, and weather stripping
Close the door and mask everything you do not want painted: lift handles, hinges, the rubber weather seal at the bottom, and the glass lites. Use 3M 2090 tape for clean removal and extend a canvas drop cloth onto the driveway to catch drips.
Prime bare metal or damaged spots
Any exposed steel must be primed with a rust-inhibitive metal primer (Rust-Oleum Professional, Zinsser Allcoat). Fiberglass doors usually only need a bonding primer on factory finishes. Apply in thin, even coats - heavy prime builds will telegraph through the topcoat.
Apply two coats of exterior enamel
Choose a 100% acrylic exterior satin or semi-gloss (Sherwin Emerald, Benjamin Moore Aura). Cut in the raised panel edges with a 2-inch angled brush, then roll the flats with a 3/8-inch microfiber roller. Work panel by panel, top to bottom, to avoid lap marks. Allow 4 hours between coats in 70°F weather.
Pull tape and let cure fully
Remove tape while the final coat is tacky (within 60 minutes of application) to avoid pulling paint. Do not open and close the door for 24 hours - fresh acrylic can block (stick) at the panel joints. Full cure is 7-14 days; avoid pressure washing until then.
Put it into practice!
Use our simulator to apply these tips directly on your project photos.